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Industry Insiders Warn of Erosion of Size Inclusivity as Fashion Shows Feature Fewer Plus-Size Models
The fashion industry's efforts to promote size inclusivity have taken a concerning turn, according to experts who report that the number of plus-size models featured in shows has declined significantly. A recent survey by Vogue Business found that just 0.9% of models presented at womenswear collections were plus-size, while only four out of 55 brands included a model with a non-straight size in Milan shows.
Industry insiders describe this trend as a "360 turn" back to promoting thinness, with some models feeling pressured to lose weight in order to secure more work in the mid-size market. Straight-size models are also facing pressure due to shrinking sample sizes.
The widespread use of GLP-1 weight-loss drugs among celebrities and the normalization of thinness beyond catwalks have contributed to this decline. The growing demand for body modification procedures, including "Barbie waist" surgery, has further exacerbated the issue.
Anna Shillinglaw, founder of Milk Management model agency, notes that while there was a brief shift towards more inclusive casting in recent years, the industry has "literally done a 360 turn." Susie Orbach, psychotherapist and writer, adds that the commercialization of the body has led to people being manufactured as products rather than living from them.
The plus-size market is estimated to be worth over £4 billion in the UK, but it's becoming increasingly inaccessible to consumers. Brands such as H&M and River Island have removed dedicated plus-size sections from their stores, making ranges available online only.
Felicity Hayward, a plus-size model and writer, expresses her disappointment at designers like Rick Owens, who previously included more diverse models in his shows, now excluding plus-size models altogether. "If you are going to be progressive, you need to continue with progression," she says.
The fashion industry's efforts to promote size inclusivity have taken a concerning turn, according to experts who report that the number of plus-size models featured in shows has declined significantly. A recent survey by Vogue Business found that just 0.9% of models presented at womenswear collections were plus-size, while only four out of 55 brands included a model with a non-straight size in Milan shows.
Industry insiders describe this trend as a "360 turn" back to promoting thinness, with some models feeling pressured to lose weight in order to secure more work in the mid-size market. Straight-size models are also facing pressure due to shrinking sample sizes.
The widespread use of GLP-1 weight-loss drugs among celebrities and the normalization of thinness beyond catwalks have contributed to this decline. The growing demand for body modification procedures, including "Barbie waist" surgery, has further exacerbated the issue.
Anna Shillinglaw, founder of Milk Management model agency, notes that while there was a brief shift towards more inclusive casting in recent years, the industry has "literally done a 360 turn." Susie Orbach, psychotherapist and writer, adds that the commercialization of the body has led to people being manufactured as products rather than living from them.
The plus-size market is estimated to be worth over £4 billion in the UK, but it's becoming increasingly inaccessible to consumers. Brands such as H&M and River Island have removed dedicated plus-size sections from their stores, making ranges available online only.
Felicity Hayward, a plus-size model and writer, expresses her disappointment at designers like Rick Owens, who previously included more diverse models in his shows, now excluding plus-size models altogether. "If you are going to be progressive, you need to continue with progression," she says.