‘We keep wine in caves and cathedrals’: an eating and drinking tour of Burgos, Spain

In Spain's Burgos province, a region known for its rugged landscape and extremes of temperature, there's a rich tradition of eating and drinking that's all about hearty food and robust wines. My guide, Loreto Esteban Guijarro, is keen to emphasize the importance of prioritizing these pleasures during our tour.

We're staying at the Posada de Pradoray, a rural hotel built as a hunting lodge in 1601, surrounded by vineyards and offering stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The property's thick stone walls, dark wood, and heavy doors suggest that little has changed since its construction centuries ago. Burgos is part of the Ribera del Duero wine region, which stretches for 71 miles along the Duero River through the provinces of Burgos, Segovia, Soria, and Valladolid.

Our hotel is just outside Aranda de Duero, the main town in the region, with a population of 33,000. From here, we're following the river on day trips to explore what's on offer. We visit Bodegas Portia, one of the new wave of wineries in the region, designed by Norman Foster and built partly underground to blend into the landscape. The wine cathedral, as locals call it, is a futuristic trefoil shape that's both striking and functional.

During our tour, we meet with Jesús Briones, the mayor of Gumiel de Izán, who takes us on a journey through his family's cave system. We learn about the traditional method of making wine in these caves, where temperatures are stable and wine is stored for centuries. The cave itself is a labyrinth of stone steps leading to rough-hewn caverns full of barrels, dating back hundreds of years.

We also visit Luz Briones at Nabal winery, where she leads us through vineyards ranging from 30 to over a century old. She explains how the region's unique terroir has created rich, tannic wines that are both complex and delicious. We learn about the importance of time in wine-making – young vines may have more energy but fewer stories, while older vines with deep roots offer complexity and depth.

We continue our journey to Moradillo de Roa, a village famous for its wine cellars and grassy hillocks. Paola González Ortiz takes us on a tour of the tiny winery museum, where we learn about the heavy labor involved in making wine. We share wine from a porrón – a glass jug with a long spout designed for sharing – which adds an element of playfulness to our visit.

Finally, we arrive at El Lagar de Isilla, where Cristina López Nuñez tells us stories of wine and winemakers over a dynamic tasting. She explains that both tradition and innovation are essential to the region's success, just like in wine-making itself – younger grapes may have more energy but fewer stories, while older vines with deep roots offer complexity and depth.

As we conclude our tour, I realize that Loreto was right: eating and drinking are indeed at the heart of Burgos' culture. The people here take their food and wine very seriously, and it's clear that this is a place where tradition meets modernity in perfect harmony. As we raise a glass to toast our journey, I'm grateful for the opportunity to experience this unique region and its passionate inhabitants.

I'm so down for a trip to Burgos . The idea of exploring a wine region with such rich history is like, totally amazing! I mean, who doesn't love wine ? And the fact that it's all about hearty food and robust wines sounds like my kind of vibe . I'd wanna try those traditional method wines in the cave system - that sounds like an adventure . And the idea that older vines have more complexity and depth is like, totally true for me when it comes to relationships too . Anyway, Burgos looks like a really cool place to visit, and I'm definitely adding it to my bucket list .

I mean, have you ever thought about how wine tourism can be like a really intimate cultural experience? Like, when you're walking through those vineyards with Luz Briones, you're not just seeing the grapes, you're hearing stories about the history of winemaking and the people who make it happen. And then there's that winery museum in Moradillo de Roa - it's like a lesson in labor rights, but also just really interesting stuff. I think what's so cool is how this region is all about balance between tradition and innovation. Like, they're not just relying on old techniques to make wine, they're still experimenting with new things. It makes me think about how that can apply to other areas of life too - finding that middle ground where you respect the past but also don't be afraid to try something new.

OMG , Burgos province in Spain sounds like the ultimate food & wine heaven! They got ancient hotels like Posada de Pradoray that's been around since 1601, like a time machine for your taste buds . And can we talk about this Ribera del Duero wine region? It's like a treasure trove of wines with unique terroirs and complex flavors . The way they blend tradition & innovation is everything - from old vines with deep roots to new wave wineries designed by famous architects .

I'm low-key obsessed with the idea of exploring cave systems for wine-making , like that labyrinthine cave system in Gumiel de Izán. And sharing wine from a porrón is just the ultimate experience . It's clear that food & drink are at the heart of Burgos' culture, and I'm so here for it . Who needs the city when you have vineyards & wine cellars?

omg i just saw the cutest pic of a spanish wine jug i wonder what kind of food they serve with those wines in spain did they have anything like pizza or pasta when i was there lol no i mean what's your favorite wine region to visit have you been to burgos?

just got back from the most epic food and wine tour in Spain burgos province is literally the heart of wine country and i'm not even kidding they have these incredible underground cave systems where people used to store wine for centuries it's like a whole different world down there! and the wines themselves are insane rich and complex with notes of oak and fruit my fave part was visiting this tiny winery museum in Moradillo de Roa where you get to taste these super old vine wines that are just bursting with flavor anyway, if you ever get the chance to go to burgos province you HAVE to take it trust me on this one

man i feel like im getting older think about all these old buildings and wine cellars around burgos province... its crazy how little changes over time, you know? like they're still using methods that been passed down through generations it just goes to show how important it is to appreciate the little things in life, not just the big ones. we spend so much time rushing around, trying to get stuff done, but sometimes its the slow and steady approach that yields the best results

gotta say, burgos province is like the ultimate food and wine paradise i mean, the ribera del duero wine region is already famous but experiencing it firsthand is a whole different story our day trips to explore the vineyards and caves were literally the highlight of my trip luz briones at nabal winery was so cool, she's like a total wine expert and her explanations about the terroir and aging process were super informative but what really got me was the way the locals take their food and drink seriously sharing wine from a porrón is such a fun and playful touch i also loved learning about the traditional method of making wine in those cave systems it's like, totally unique and fascinating

Burgos province is like my heart, all about good food and drink ! They really know how to prioritize those pleasures in a way that's not too fancy or pretentious . The wine region there is so cool , from the stunning vineyards to the futuristic underground wineries . And have you seen the cave system they use for aging wines? It's like something out of a movie !

I love how the locals share their passion for food and drink with visitors , and it's clear that tradition and innovation go hand in hand . The wine tastings are so much fun , especially when you get to try those traditional porrón glasses . And let's not forget the history behind each winery – it's like learning about your favorite family recipes .

Anyway, I'm totally convinced that Burgos province is the perfect destination for foodies and wine lovers alike . If you haven't been there yet, add it to your bucket list ASAP !

This whole wine tour thingy seems like a masterclass in how not to privatize heritage sites and small farms . I mean, think about it - they're all these family-owned vineyards and wineries that are still keeping the traditional methods alive . And then you got these big-name architects coming in and designing these futuristic wine cathedrals . It's like, what's the government going to do - declare them historic landmarks and slap some kind of tax on them?

And let's not forget about the workers - all those laborers out there digging tunnels and tending vines for pennies . I'm no expert but it seems like a perfect storm of gentrification and neoliberalism is brewing in this region . We should be supporting these small businesses and local farmers, not just swooping in with our fancy wine tastings and Instagram filters .

man i think its awesome how spain is all about preserving their wine-making traditions while also embracing innovation at the same time. it's like they're striking a perfect balance between old school and new wave, which is something we can definitely learn from in other industries too the way luz briones explained how younger vines have more energy but fewer stories, vs older vines with deep roots offering complexity and depth, is so relatable

what's up with these wine caves? like, can you even imagine living down there? so cool that they're still using ancient methods to make wine i mean, it's not just about the grapes anymore, it's about the history and the people behind it too

also, who knew wine could be so... scientific? like, terroir this and aging that. i'm all for trying new things but sometimes you just want to drink a glass of wine and enjoy it without thinking about all the details

can't wait to try some of these wines back home! sounds like they have an amazing selection

the way they blend old and new architecture with the natural surroundings is just genius i mean, who wouldn't want to stay in a 1601-built hotel that still looks like it's straight out of medieval times? but at the same time, the futuristic wine cathedral is just stunning - love how norman foster incorporated the local landscape into his design and the fact that they're using old techniques to make wine in the caves is so cool i think what's most impressive is how this region finds a balance between tradition and innovation - it's not about holding on to the past, but also embracing new ideas

just had the craziest dream about tapas i mean what's not to love about food and wine in spain?! Burgos province is like the mecca of rustic goodness they've got vineyards, castles, and more wine than you can shake a stick at and that cave system? mind. blown. i need to start planning a trip ASAP [www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-53684125](http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-53684125)

I just got back from Spain and OMG Burgos province is literally the most stunning place I've ever seen! The food, wine, everything is just soooo delicious and rich in culture. I loved how we got to visit these tiny wineries and learn about the history behind them. It's crazy to think that some of those old vines have been around for centuries! And the people, oh my gosh, they're just so warm and welcoming . The way they share their passion for wine and food is truly infectious. I'm already thinking of planning another trip back there ASAP

I just got back from reading about Spain's Burgos province . It sounds like they take their food and wine super seriously there, which is really cool. Like, the wineries have these crazy old caves where they store wine for centuries? Mind blown! And it's not just about the wine either, they're all about sharing meals with each other and enjoying the company. That's something I can definitely get behind . I think what struck me most was how tradition and innovation go hand in hand there - it's like they're embracing both old-school methods and new ideas to create this amazing culture. Anyway, if you ever get the chance to visit Burgos province, I'd totally recommend it!

I just got back from Spain and oh man, the food and wine in Burgos are insane ! I was a bit skeptical about trying new wines, but it's amazing how each one has its own story and history behind it. The whole experience felt so... rustic? cozy? like you're stepping into someone's home . And can we talk about the caves? Like, who knew wine could be made in ancient cave systems? It just goes to show that tradition is still super important in Burgos, but they're also open to new ideas and innovations. I loved how Loreto kept saying it was all about hearty food and robust wines – yeah, no kidding! But what really got me was the sense of community and family that comes with making wine. Everyone's so passionate about their craft, it's infectious. And let's not forget those porrón jug thingies ... who knew sharing wine could be so much fun?

I gotta say, this whole wine tour thing just got me thinking about how capitalism works... like, these wineries are totally invested in preserving their traditional methods, but at what cost? Are they prioritizing heritage over innovation, or is it a delicate balance between the two? I mean, we're talking about 1601 when that Posada de Pradoray was built - can you imagine how much power those old stone walls must've held back then

And have you noticed how these wineries are trying to tap into their 'unique terroir' to sell it to the tourists? It's like, they're trying to create this myth of a ' Burgos wine style', but isn't that just a marketing gimmick? I'm all for preserving traditions, but not when it comes at the expense of economic growth

I mean, have you guys ever been to Spain? I've always wanted to visit Burgos province, it looks so beautiful with all those vineyards . The fact that they're preserving traditional methods of making wine in caves is really cool, like a time capsule or something. And the history behind the Posada de Pradoray hotel, built as a hunting lodge back in 1601, that's just awesome! The way they describe it as still feeling like the past is crazy, I wonder if they have any old furniture or stuff still from then...

Ugh, another wine tour article ... Can't they just focus on the food? Burgos has some amazing tapas scene, but nope, all anyone cares about is the wine . And have you noticed how every single winery is now a "wine cathedral"? Like, hello, it's just a building for storing wine . And what's with all these cave systems? Can't they just use modern cellars like everyone else? The only thing I'm excited about is trying the food in Aranda de Duero, hopefully they have some decent bocadillos or churros ...