‘We keep wine in caves and cathedrals’: an eating and drinking tour of Burgos, Spain

In the rugged highlands of Spain's Burgos province, where summer days are blistering and nights can be icy cold, food, drink, and even people are bold and unflinching. My guide, Loreto Esteban Guijarro, is keen to set priorities straight: we're here for the local cuisine and vino.

I'm spending a few days at the rural Posada de Pradoray, built in 1601 as a hunting lodge for the Duke of Lerma. With its thick stone walls, dark wood, and heavy doors, little has changed since it was first constructed - a testament to the enduring nature of this landscape. Burgos is part of the Ribera del Duero wine region, a 71-mile stretch along the Duero River that passes through four provinces: Burgos, Segovia, Soria, and Valladolid.

Since its recognition as an appellation in 1982, the region has undergone significant transformations - with more than 300 wineries now operating, compared to just nine back then. To help visitors navigate this gastronomic paradise, a wine route has been developed, offering a wealth of sampling opportunities. My hotel is situated just outside Aranda de Duero, a charming town in the heart of the region (population around 33,000), with easy access to vineyards, restaurants, and other local attractions.

My first stop is Bodegas Portia, an impressive winery designed by Norman Foster that's nestled on the edge of Gumiel de Izán. The futuristic trefoil building seems out of place amidst the sun-baked fields, but its clever design helps it blend seamlessly into the landscape. Built partly underground, the complex also acknowledges the region's unique traditions in wine-making.

After exploring Portia, I meet Jesús Briones, the mayor of Gumiel de Izán, who takes me on a tour of his home - and invites me to explore some of the region's hidden treasures. We venture into a nearby cave, which has been used for centuries as a storage facility for wine barrels. The air is cool and damp, and I'm struck by the rough-hewn beauty of these ancient cellars. Traditionally, wine in this region was aged in deep, hand-dug caves where temperatures remained stable.

In Gumiel de Izán, we meet Luz Briones, who's passionate about her work at Nabal winery. She leads me through the vineyards, pointing out plants ranging from 30 to over a century old, and explaining how they're carefully tended to create rich, tannic wines. The story goes that monks used to age their wine in these very same caves - it's said that sometimes, lights would flicker on in the building when it was empty.

Next, I visit Paola González Ortiz in the village of Moradillo de Roa, where I'm introduced to another fascinating aspect of this region: wine cellars. With over 157 entrances and just a handful of residents, this place is often compared to Tolkien's The Shire. Paola takes me on a winding journey down into the hillside, revealing hidden caves and underground passageways - it's a little like exploring an ancient city.

At El Lagar de Isilla, I experience some of the region's most vibrant nightlife. A bustling bar fills with people from all walks of life, from office workers to those looking for a night out. We feast on local delicacies, including salt cod and octopus cooked in sweet paprika sauce - and wash it down with an excellent wine produced by the winery itself.

Throughout my tour, Loreto reassures me that this is indeed about food, drink, and who you share it with: 'it's like a big feast'.

I'm loving this wine region in Spain . I think it's so cool that they've got all these wineries popping up left and right, it's like the whole town is embracing their love for vino. And can we talk about how gorgeous those old caves are? Like, who needs fancy architecture when you've got natural beauty like that under your feet?

I also think Jesús Briones, the mayor of Gumiel de Izán, is a total hero . I mean, he's showing people around his home and sharing all these hidden gems with this tourist (aka me). It's not every day you get to explore an ancient cave system and meet someone who's so passionate about their work.

And Paola González Ortiz in Moradillo de Roa is like the ultimate tour guide . I mean, have you seen that place? It's like something out of a fantasy book!

But what really gets me is how this whole region is all about community and sharing food with others . Loreto says it's 'like a big feast' and I couldn't agree more. There's just something special about sipping wine with strangers-turned-friends, you know?

the article is giving me major FOMO vibes lol I mean, 300+ wineries in one region? that's wild! and the fact that wine was aged in caves for centuries? so cool! i love how the author's guide, Loreto, is all about prioritizing food and drink over other touristy stuff. it sounds like they're really living the local vibe. and omg, a bar with 157 entrances? that's like something out of a fantasy novel or somethin'!

draw a little map of Spain's Burgos province
ok so i think what's really cool about burgos is how the food and wine scene has evolved over time. from just 9 wineries back in 1982 to over 300 now, it's like this whole region has been transformed into one big gastronomic paradise

imagine a diagram of a wine barrel with a few layers
each layer would represent different types of wines and how they're made. that way you could see the history and process behind each bottle.

anyway i'm loving the mix of old and new in burgos - from ancient cellars to modern wineries. it's all about finding that balance between tradition and innovation

draw a simple diagram of a happy wine tasting scene
people coming together to share food, drink, and good company. that's what loreto was saying, 'it's like a big feast'. can't argue with that!

I'm loving the vibe of this article about Spain's Burgos province . The writer seems to be having an amazing time exploring the local cuisine and vino . I especially enjoyed learning about the unique wine-making traditions in the region - like aging wine in deep, hand-dug caves where temperatures remain stable . It sounds like a really special experience! The way the writer weaves together history, culture, and food is just top-notch . And can we talk about how stunning it must be to explore those underground wine cellars?

the whole thing about the tech advancements in Burgos province seems kinda overrated to me . i mean, a wine route? that sounds more like a fancy way of saying "we've got some nice roads leading to vineyards" . and what's with all these wineries popping up left and right? it's not like the region was lacking in good stuff before... seems like they're just trying to cash in on the whole " Ribera del Duero" thing . and don't even get me started on that Norman Foster build - looks like something straight out of a sci-fi movie .

omg u gotta try the wine in burgos province esp the portia bodegas theyre super underrated u can tell the history in the buildings too its like stepping back in time and btw who needs fancy schmancy architecture when u got natural beauty like this

just had to chuckle when I read about the "wine route" in Burgos province. Like, do we really need an app to help us find wine? Can't we just enjoy the taste and the company of good people already? And all these fancy wineries with Norman Foster designs... isn't it enough that they produce some great vino?

This Ribera del Duero region in Spain is literally a haven for foodies ! From the traditional wine caves to the stunning scenery, I'm loving every minute of this culinary adventure. And let me tell you, those underground cellars are seriously impressive - it's like something out of a fantasy novel . The fact that these ancient structures still produce world-class wines is just incredible .

I've gotta give a shoutout to Loreto and Jesús for showing me around - they're total wine experts and know their stuff . And Paola at Moradillo de Roa? Mind blown by the hidden cave system . Not to mention the delicious food and drinks we were indulging in... I mean, who needs a Michelin star when you can just have a night out with great wine and grub .

One thing that's really stood out to me is how vibrant this region is - from the nightlife at El Lagar de Isilla to the charming towns like Aranda de Duero, it's clear that there's so much more to Ribera del Duero than just wine . It's all about the community and sharing great food with others... I'm totally on board with that vibe

I'm so over all the hype around the Ribera del Duero wine region . I mean, sure, it's got some nice vineyards and wineries, but is it really worth the fuss? To me, it feels like every single person in this area is a bit too eager to show off their grapes and get tourists to come visit... like they're all competing in some kind of wine-making Olympics . And don't even get me started on the "ancient cellars" and whatnot - I've seen just as cool (and cooler, tbh) old caves in my backyard! Give me a break with all this over-the-top "wine tourism" nonsense...

omg i'm so stoked 2 c the changes in spain's burgos province! they've got over 300 wineries now, compared to just 9 back in 1982 - thats a major upgrade lol. and the wine route is def a game changer. i'm loving how they're embracing their heritage & incorporating new tech into their wine-making process. those underground caves r so cool, btw! who knew monks used 2 age their wine in them tho? Luz from Nabal winery is like, super passionate about her work & it shows. the whole region is just so picturesque, cant wait 2 go back

omg u gotta try spanish vino!! the ribera del duero region is literally one of the best wine places in spain i went to burgos province last year and it was insane! they have over 300 wineries now, which is crazy compared to just 9 back then the people there are super passionate about their food and drink, and the vibes are so chill

i'm a huge fan of norman foster's designs, btw his bodegas portia winery is like whoa but what i loved most was exploring all those hidden caves and underground passageways in gumiel de izán Luz briones' story about the monks aging their wine there is literally too cool

just read about the Ribera del Duero wine region in Spain and I'm tempted to hop on a plane ASAP . The idea of exploring those beautiful vineyards, caves, and cellars sounds like an adventure . And who can resist a good glass (or two) of Spanish vino?

oic i was reading bout dis ribera del duero wine region in spain and its like wow how does the wine even age in those caves lol its like they have these secret underground passageways just chillin with old barrels of wine

i dont think ill ever get tired of wine tastings btw what do u guys think about spanish food is it that good? should i try making paella or somethin

omg did u know that my fave snack from childhood is actually super hard to make at home i mean, have u ever tried making popcorn from scratch? it's like magic but with kernels

I gotta say, this Burgos region in Spain is straight up fascinating . The way they've developed their wine route and highlighted these unique cellars and wineries is super admirable . But what I find really interesting is how the local government has invested in preserving these historic sites while also modernizing the industry - it's like a perfect blend of tradition and progress.

You know, this reminds me of some of the foodie initiatives going on in other parts of the world where governments are trying to promote local cuisine and create sustainable economies . It's not just about the wine itself, but also about the communities that come together to share it and celebrate their heritage.

And I love how Loreto's approach is all about 'sharing a meal' with locals - that's really at the heart of what food and drink are all about, right? . It's not just about the destination, but also about the journey and the people you meet along the way.

So yeah, Burgos region in Spain might seem like a small corner of the world, but it's got some big lessons to teach us about how to balance tradition with innovation and community engagement .

omg u gotta try the vino from burgos esp that paprika sauce tho 300 wineries now? insane! they're preserving all these old traditions & caves too it's like stepping into another world. & moradillo de roa is literally like a hidden city down in those hills can't wait to plan my own trip there

This Burgos region is literally steeped in history & tradition . I mean, can you even imagine having wine aged in ancient caves for centuries? Mind blown! And the idea that monks used to age their own wine... how cool would it be to try some of that?! The way they've kept the old traditions alive, but also incorporated modern designs & innovations... it's just genius . I'd totally want to go back there and explore more of the hidden treasures & taste all the delicious local wines

this region sounds soooo good i mean, who wouldn't want to visit spain in the summer and enjoy all the delicious local food and wine? i'm loving the idea of exploring those ancient caves used for wine barrels - can you imagine the history that's stored down there? it's like they're saying "come taste our vino, but also check out our underground wine vaults"

and omg, moradillo de roa sounds like a real-life hobbit hole i'm totally down for exploring all those hidden caves and passageways. i wonder if they have any secret bars or underground restaurants in there too? maybe that's the best part of the tour - getting to discover all the hidden gems along the way.

anyway, it sounds like this region is really living up to its reputation as a foodie paradise i mean, wine cellars and caves, delicious local dishes... what more could you ask for?