ChromaCobra
Well-known member
In the rugged highlands of Spain's Burgos province, where summer days are blistering and nights can be icy cold, food, drink, and even people are bold and unflinching. My guide, Loreto Esteban Guijarro, is keen to set priorities straight: we're here for the local cuisine and vino.
I'm spending a few days at the rural Posada de Pradoray, built in 1601 as a hunting lodge for the Duke of Lerma. With its thick stone walls, dark wood, and heavy doors, little has changed since it was first constructed - a testament to the enduring nature of this landscape. Burgos is part of the Ribera del Duero wine region, a 71-mile stretch along the Duero River that passes through four provinces: Burgos, Segovia, Soria, and Valladolid.
Since its recognition as an appellation in 1982, the region has undergone significant transformations - with more than 300 wineries now operating, compared to just nine back then. To help visitors navigate this gastronomic paradise, a wine route has been developed, offering a wealth of sampling opportunities. My hotel is situated just outside Aranda de Duero, a charming town in the heart of the region (population around 33,000), with easy access to vineyards, restaurants, and other local attractions.
My first stop is Bodegas Portia, an impressive winery designed by Norman Foster that's nestled on the edge of Gumiel de Izán. The futuristic trefoil building seems out of place amidst the sun-baked fields, but its clever design helps it blend seamlessly into the landscape. Built partly underground, the complex also acknowledges the region's unique traditions in wine-making.
After exploring Portia, I meet Jesús Briones, the mayor of Gumiel de Izán, who takes me on a tour of his home - and invites me to explore some of the region's hidden treasures. We venture into a nearby cave, which has been used for centuries as a storage facility for wine barrels. The air is cool and damp, and I'm struck by the rough-hewn beauty of these ancient cellars. Traditionally, wine in this region was aged in deep, hand-dug caves where temperatures remained stable.
In Gumiel de Izán, we meet Luz Briones, who's passionate about her work at Nabal winery. She leads me through the vineyards, pointing out plants ranging from 30 to over a century old, and explaining how they're carefully tended to create rich, tannic wines. The story goes that monks used to age their wine in these very same caves - it's said that sometimes, lights would flicker on in the building when it was empty.
Next, I visit Paola González Ortiz in the village of Moradillo de Roa, where I'm introduced to another fascinating aspect of this region: wine cellars. With over 157 entrances and just a handful of residents, this place is often compared to Tolkien's The Shire. Paola takes me on a winding journey down into the hillside, revealing hidden caves and underground passageways - it's a little like exploring an ancient city.
At El Lagar de Isilla, I experience some of the region's most vibrant nightlife. A bustling bar fills with people from all walks of life, from office workers to those looking for a night out. We feast on local delicacies, including salt cod and octopus cooked in sweet paprika sauce - and wash it down with an excellent wine produced by the winery itself.
Throughout my tour, Loreto reassures me that this is indeed about food, drink, and who you share it with: 'it's like a big feast'.
I'm spending a few days at the rural Posada de Pradoray, built in 1601 as a hunting lodge for the Duke of Lerma. With its thick stone walls, dark wood, and heavy doors, little has changed since it was first constructed - a testament to the enduring nature of this landscape. Burgos is part of the Ribera del Duero wine region, a 71-mile stretch along the Duero River that passes through four provinces: Burgos, Segovia, Soria, and Valladolid.
Since its recognition as an appellation in 1982, the region has undergone significant transformations - with more than 300 wineries now operating, compared to just nine back then. To help visitors navigate this gastronomic paradise, a wine route has been developed, offering a wealth of sampling opportunities. My hotel is situated just outside Aranda de Duero, a charming town in the heart of the region (population around 33,000), with easy access to vineyards, restaurants, and other local attractions.
My first stop is Bodegas Portia, an impressive winery designed by Norman Foster that's nestled on the edge of Gumiel de Izán. The futuristic trefoil building seems out of place amidst the sun-baked fields, but its clever design helps it blend seamlessly into the landscape. Built partly underground, the complex also acknowledges the region's unique traditions in wine-making.
After exploring Portia, I meet Jesús Briones, the mayor of Gumiel de Izán, who takes me on a tour of his home - and invites me to explore some of the region's hidden treasures. We venture into a nearby cave, which has been used for centuries as a storage facility for wine barrels. The air is cool and damp, and I'm struck by the rough-hewn beauty of these ancient cellars. Traditionally, wine in this region was aged in deep, hand-dug caves where temperatures remained stable.
In Gumiel de Izán, we meet Luz Briones, who's passionate about her work at Nabal winery. She leads me through the vineyards, pointing out plants ranging from 30 to over a century old, and explaining how they're carefully tended to create rich, tannic wines. The story goes that monks used to age their wine in these very same caves - it's said that sometimes, lights would flicker on in the building when it was empty.
Next, I visit Paola González Ortiz in the village of Moradillo de Roa, where I'm introduced to another fascinating aspect of this region: wine cellars. With over 157 entrances and just a handful of residents, this place is often compared to Tolkien's The Shire. Paola takes me on a winding journey down into the hillside, revealing hidden caves and underground passageways - it's a little like exploring an ancient city.
At El Lagar de Isilla, I experience some of the region's most vibrant nightlife. A bustling bar fills with people from all walks of life, from office workers to those looking for a night out. We feast on local delicacies, including salt cod and octopus cooked in sweet paprika sauce - and wash it down with an excellent wine produced by the winery itself.
Throughout my tour, Loreto reassures me that this is indeed about food, drink, and who you share it with: 'it's like a big feast'.
. I think it's so cool that they've got all these wineries popping up left and right, it's like the whole town is embracing their love for vino. And can we talk about how gorgeous those old caves are? Like, who needs fancy architecture when you've got natural beauty like that under your feet? 
. I mean, he's showing people around his home and sharing all these hidden gems with this tourist (aka me). It's not every day you get to explore an ancient cave system and meet someone who's so passionate about their work.
. I mean, have you seen that place? It's like something out of a fantasy book! 
. Loreto says it's 'like a big feast' and I couldn't agree more. There's just something special about sipping wine with strangers-turned-friends, you know? 
i love how the author's guide, Loreto, is all about prioritizing food and drink over other touristy stuff. it sounds like they're really living the local vibe. and omg, a bar with 157 entrances? 
that's like something out of a fantasy novel or somethin'!
. It sounds like a really special experience! The way the writer weaves together history, culture, and food is just top-notch 
. And can we talk about how stunning it must be to explore those underground wine cellars? 
. i mean, a wine route? that sounds more like a fancy way of saying "we've got some nice roads leading to vineyards" 
. and what's with all these wineries popping up left and right? it's not like the region was lacking in good stuff before... seems like they're just trying to cash in on the whole " Ribera del Duero" thing 
. and don't even get me started on that Norman Foster build - looks like something straight out of a sci-fi movie 
.
and btw who needs fancy schmancy architecture when u got natural beauty like this 
. The fact that these ancient structures still produce world-class wines is just incredible 
.
. And Paola at Moradillo de Roa? Mind blown by the hidden cave system 
. Not to mention the delicious food and drinks we were indulging in... I mean, who needs a Michelin star when you can just have a night out with great wine and grub 
.
. It's all about the community and sharing great food with others... I'm totally on board with that vibe 
. I mean, sure, it's got some nice vineyards and wineries, but is it really worth the fuss? To me, it feels like every single person in this area is a bit too eager to show off their grapes and get tourists to come visit... like they're all competing in some kind of wine-making Olympics 
. And don't even get me started on the "ancient cellars" and whatnot - I've seen just as cool (and cooler, tbh) old caves in my backyard! 
Give me a break with all this over-the-top "wine tourism" nonsense...
who knew monks used 2 age their wine in them tho? Luz from Nabal winery is like, super passionate about her work & it shows. the whole region is just so picturesque, cant wait 2 go back
the ribera del duero region is literally one of the best wine places in spain 
the people there are super passionate about their food and drink, and the vibes are so chill 
his bodegas portia winery is like whoa 
but what i loved most was exploring all those hidden caves and underground passageways in gumiel de izán 
and I'm tempted to hop on a plane ASAP 
. The idea of exploring those beautiful vineyards, caves, and cellars sounds like an adventure 
. And who can resist a good glass (or two) of Spanish vino? 
. It's not just about the wine itself, but also about the communities that come together to share it and celebrate their heritage.
.
The way they've kept the old traditions alive, but also incorporated modern designs & innovations... it's just genius 
it's like they're saying "come taste our vino, but also check out our underground wine vaults" 
i'm totally down for exploring all those hidden caves and passageways. i wonder if they have any secret bars or underground restaurants in there too? 