The term 'luxury' has lost its meaning. It's now associated with anything from a £1,590 cotton hoodie with a faux fur-trimmed hood by Balenciaga to a £9,000 stainless steel coffin that resembles Elon Musk's Cybertruck. The irony lies in the fact that luxury brands are now proudly self-identifying and embracing this concept of conspicuous consumption.
Fashion designer Demna Gvasalia is a prime example of this shift. His designs often spark controversy and outrage, but they also tap into a desire for showy wealth and status. Balenciaga's latest collaboration with British Vogue features Gwyneth Paltrow wearing the £1,590 hoodie in her luxurious Hamptons home, where she chops a pineapple in a marble kitchen. The juxtaposition is striking – it's almost as if the designer is asking us to laugh at the absurdity of it all.
However, luxury has always been contentious. The word has been debated for over 2,000 years, with philosophers like Plato and Rousseau weighing in on its meaning. Karl Marx even described it as "the opposite of the necessary." It's a "shape shifter," explains Dr John Armitage, an associate professor and author of books on luxury philosophy.
The latest iteration of luxury is all about conspicuous consumption – a return to loud, flashy, and expensive clothing and accessories that shout about wealth and status. The £8m Birkin bag is back in style, as are five-figure Labubus and President Trump's gaudy gold Oval Office makeover.
Demna's Gucci collection was similarly unapologetic, featuring giant logo-ed trunks, faux-fur coats, and scuffed edges on a £425 baseball cap. There's no subtlety here – it's all about making a statement.
So what does this say about our understanding of luxury? Dr Armitage suggests that its meaning is constantly changing, but rather than diluting the term, we're simply understanding it differently. "The thing about luxury," he says, "is that its meaning is not fixed."
Perhaps this shift in perception is a reflection of our online-driven lives, where the notion of quiet luxury has given way to a desire for showy wealth and status. The question remains – does 'luxury' still mean anything? Or has it simply become a marketing term with no deeper meaning?
Fashion designer Demna Gvasalia is a prime example of this shift. His designs often spark controversy and outrage, but they also tap into a desire for showy wealth and status. Balenciaga's latest collaboration with British Vogue features Gwyneth Paltrow wearing the £1,590 hoodie in her luxurious Hamptons home, where she chops a pineapple in a marble kitchen. The juxtaposition is striking – it's almost as if the designer is asking us to laugh at the absurdity of it all.
However, luxury has always been contentious. The word has been debated for over 2,000 years, with philosophers like Plato and Rousseau weighing in on its meaning. Karl Marx even described it as "the opposite of the necessary." It's a "shape shifter," explains Dr John Armitage, an associate professor and author of books on luxury philosophy.
The latest iteration of luxury is all about conspicuous consumption – a return to loud, flashy, and expensive clothing and accessories that shout about wealth and status. The £8m Birkin bag is back in style, as are five-figure Labubus and President Trump's gaudy gold Oval Office makeover.
Demna's Gucci collection was similarly unapologetic, featuring giant logo-ed trunks, faux-fur coats, and scuffed edges on a £425 baseball cap. There's no subtlety here – it's all about making a statement.
So what does this say about our understanding of luxury? Dr Armitage suggests that its meaning is constantly changing, but rather than diluting the term, we're simply understanding it differently. "The thing about luxury," he says, "is that its meaning is not fixed."
Perhaps this shift in perception is a reflection of our online-driven lives, where the notion of quiet luxury has given way to a desire for showy wealth and status. The question remains – does 'luxury' still mean anything? Or has it simply become a marketing term with no deeper meaning?