ShadowCipher
Well-known member
Wine, food, and camaraderie - in that order. In the Burgos province of Spain, where summer days can soar to scorching temperatures but nights plummet to subzero lows, robust food and drink are essential for survival. For my latest assignment, I embarked on a gastronomic journey through wine country with a local guide who prioritized eating and drinking above all else.
My home for the duration was Posada de Pradoray, a 17th-century hunting lodge nestled in a vineyard that has remained relatively unchanged since its heyday. As I settled into this rustic retreat, I discovered that Burgos is part of the Ribera del Duero wine region - a 71-mile stretch along the Duero River that traverses four provinces and boasts over 300 wineries.
Loreto Esteban Guijarro, my knowledgeable guide, led me on an unforgettable tour through this breathtaking landscape. We visited Bodegas Portia, a futuristic winery built on the edge of Gumiel de Izán, where I marveled at its unique trefoil shape and underground storage facilities. The town's mayor, Jesús Briones, invited us into his cave system, where we sipped wine from an ancient porrón - a glass jug with a spout designed for sharing wine.
Our journey continued in the picturesque village of Moradillo de Roa, famous for its numerous wine cellars and 'Hobbit-like' entrances. Paola González Ortiz shared stories about the labor-intensive process of making wine while we enjoyed a meal of local delicacies from her porrón. I also visited Nabal winery, where young Luz Briones showed me how centuries-old vines produce rich, tannic wines that are 'like old people - with much better stories.'
We sampled wine at various establishments in Aranda de Duero, including Don Carlos wine shop, which offered a lively tasting experience led by Cristina López Nuñez. As we raised our glasses, the town transformed around us: men sipping coffee and smoking gave way to a vibrant atmosphere of people from all walks of life enjoying wine.
In Burgos province, Loreto's mantra - 'It's about eating and drinking, and who you share it with' - rang true. The food was delicious, the wine affordable, and the company warm. It was an unforgettable experience that left me grateful for this corner of Spain, where tradition and innovation blend together in perfect harmony.
Accommodation details: double rooms at La Posada de Pradoray from €80 B&B, including wine on arrival.
My home for the duration was Posada de Pradoray, a 17th-century hunting lodge nestled in a vineyard that has remained relatively unchanged since its heyday. As I settled into this rustic retreat, I discovered that Burgos is part of the Ribera del Duero wine region - a 71-mile stretch along the Duero River that traverses four provinces and boasts over 300 wineries.
Loreto Esteban Guijarro, my knowledgeable guide, led me on an unforgettable tour through this breathtaking landscape. We visited Bodegas Portia, a futuristic winery built on the edge of Gumiel de Izán, where I marveled at its unique trefoil shape and underground storage facilities. The town's mayor, Jesús Briones, invited us into his cave system, where we sipped wine from an ancient porrón - a glass jug with a spout designed for sharing wine.
Our journey continued in the picturesque village of Moradillo de Roa, famous for its numerous wine cellars and 'Hobbit-like' entrances. Paola González Ortiz shared stories about the labor-intensive process of making wine while we enjoyed a meal of local delicacies from her porrón. I also visited Nabal winery, where young Luz Briones showed me how centuries-old vines produce rich, tannic wines that are 'like old people - with much better stories.'
We sampled wine at various establishments in Aranda de Duero, including Don Carlos wine shop, which offered a lively tasting experience led by Cristina López Nuñez. As we raised our glasses, the town transformed around us: men sipping coffee and smoking gave way to a vibrant atmosphere of people from all walks of life enjoying wine.
In Burgos province, Loreto's mantra - 'It's about eating and drinking, and who you share it with' - rang true. The food was delicious, the wine affordable, and the company warm. It was an unforgettable experience that left me grateful for this corner of Spain, where tradition and innovation blend together in perfect harmony.
Accommodation details: double rooms at La Posada de Pradoray from €80 B&B, including wine on arrival.